LOVE YOUR SKIN WITH Dr. EBELE UGOCHUKWU: LETS TALK ABOUT SKIN LIGHTENING, TONING & BLEACHING

CULLED FROM DR EBELE UGOCHUKWU'S LOVE YOUR SKIN SERIES ON BELLA NAIJA

This is a big topic and so relevant to us in our society that I have divided into two parts.
Let’s get the terminology right first. Skin lightening as the name implies is the process of lightening your skin by a couple of shades or more.

Skin bleaching is the process of attempting to strip your skin completely of melanin. This process is very dangerous, invasive and can lead to many unwanted side effects.

Skin toning is a colloquial term that implies the lightening of the tone/shade of your skin. FYI, skin toning is also the process of balancing the ph of your skin with the application of a toner which is a liquid agent usually applied to the face after washing using a cotton ball or pad. However, In Nigeria Toning is almost always referring to skin lightening.

Why do we feel that lighter skin is better, what makes us assume that a light skinned person is always more appealing than a darker skinned person?

The answer is obviously centuries old…..When our ancestors were living in Africa centuries ago there was no light skin/dark skin debate until the white man arrived on the shores of our continent and abducted a vast majority of Africans as slaves.

Everyone knows the degradation, segregation, humiliation and plight of the enslaved black man up to and especially after the abolition of slavery. The white slave masters regularly impregnated their African female slaves leading to the birth of children with light skin who got more privileges than their dark skinned neighbours and so the idea that light skin is better took hold and grew in bounds. Obviously at the time, being lighter meant an easier smoother ride in life.

This belief system has taken root deep down and has evolved to fair/light skin being the standard of beauty. As we who remained back in Africa became more westernised all in the name of growth and development; this way of thinking has completely pervaded our society.

A lot of education has gone on in recent time to disabuse ourselves of this notion but like I said it is ingrained and will take time for us to shake it off.

True Beauty is in healthy, glowing, radiant, blemish free skin irrespective of the shade. We need to love ourselves wholly and totally in whatever skin colour we have been given. We MUST teach our sons and daughters to love themselves as they are.

It is a journey but if we keep passing the message along, we will get there.
Even in Asia, lighter skin depicts wealth and status while dark skin depicts poverty and servitude especially in India. That is one of the reasons Asia is the world leader in all things skin lightening.

To be clear Skin bleaching is not acceptable in any form or way. This is when you want to change your skin colour totally and go from being a dark or medium toned individual to a light skinned person. This is dangerous and completely unsustainable.

However, there is nothing wrong in wanting to maintain the natural radiance of your complexion.
As we age, our skin naturally darkens especially on the exposed areas of our bodies; one can safely lighten these areas to maintain our complexions.

Hyperpigmentation (skin darkening which can be localised or diffuse i.e. covering a large area) is one of the major complaints of ethnic skin. I mentioned this in my article where I listed the differences between ethnic and Caucasian skin.

There are many causes of hyperpigmentation, some of these include;
• Sun exposure
• Inflammation such as acne, insect bite, injury, inflammatory skin conditions.
• Illness
• Drugs
• Pregnancy (melasma/mask of pregnancy)
• Hormone therapy
• Physiological (aging)

Everyone notices a natural darkening of the skin following hours of sun exposure. If you look at your inner arms or thighs, most times these areas are lighter than your neck, arms and face.

Examples of drugs which may cause skin darkening include; anti-seizure drugs like phenytoin, antipsychotics like chlorpromazine, antimalarial (chloroquine) NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs), Amiodarone, cytotoxic drugs, Sulphonamides. These are a few examples of the more common drugs that can cause hyper pigmentation but note that it is not a given in all cases; individual response varies.

For those of you whose grandparents are still alive, I am sure you would have noticed that they are significantly darker than when they were younger; you may observe this from old pictures or comments from your parents or other relations. This is age related physiological darkening and is completely normal.

Healing occurs after any inflammatory assault (acne, insect bite, injury) on the skin, which in turn can lead to scarring and hyperpigmentation. Remember I told you ethnic skin is more prone to post inflammatory hyper pigmentation as compared to Caucasian skin.

So, the point of all the above is that darkening of the skin occurs so the desire to lighten is not only understandable but sometimes necessary.

The question then becomes how we achieve skin lightening naturally and safely.

In part 2 of this topic, I will exhaustively go through the different types of lightning agents, safety and efficacy, how to use for best results. I will highlight the dangerous lightening agents and why you should avoid them.

In closing, I strongly advise anyone who wants to completely change their skin colour to desist; you may enjoy the results initially but rest assured it is not sustainable; your skin will eventually redarken and worst of all become damaged. There is no solution for irreversibly damaged skin; there is no procedure, expensive or otherwise that can reverse damaged skin. Learn to love yourself as God has made you…..Always enhance not transform…

Till next time, keep putting your best face forward!

LOVE YOUR SKIN WITH DR EBELE UGOCHUKWU - LETS TALK MICRO DERMABRASION

CULLED FROM DR EBELE UGOCHUKWU'S LOVE YOUR SKIN SERIES ON BELLA NAIJA

Microdermabrasion was developed in Italy in 1985 and is simply a much deeper form of exfoliation which ideally should be performed by a medical doctor or licensed aesthetician.

It involves the application of tiny rough grains to buff away the surface layer of the skin. This treatment as already mentioned is best performed by a medical personnel however, there are some home microdermabrasion systems in the market today.

Recalling our previous topic, I described the skin and its layers, topmost layer being the stratum corneum. All of the action of microdermabrasion takes place at the level of the stratum corneum. It is painful and potentially dangerous for the procedure to be applied down to the layer of the dermis.

The top layer of the skin, the stratum corner is home to many minor skin imperfections such as fine wrinkles and blemishes and most beauty procedures target the removal of these imperfections by scraping/ scrubbing/ melting away the top layer of the stratum corneum.

Since all of the action of microdermabrasion takes place on the top layer of the epidermis it would have been more accurate to call it micro-epidermabrasion. As mentioned, affecting the deep layers would risk permanently embedding the tiny grains into the skin and this will be extremely harmful.
Microdermabrasion is applied with a special tool and the principle behind it is, if you remove or break up the stratum corner, the body interprets this as a mild injury and rushes to replace the lost skin cells with new healthy ones.

This tool shoots a stream of tiny crystals like Aluminium oxide, Sodium Chloride or Sodium bicarbonate, and then collects the leftover dead skin cells and used crystal by vacuum action. There are newer tools in the market that use a diamond-tipped wand on the skin instead of a stream of particles.
The vacuum action of the machine has four main functions which include; pulling and raising a small section of the skin to work on, creating a mild swelling and bringing some of the impurities to the surface, shooting a steam of crystals across target skin patch and finally, collecting the used crystals and dead skin for disposal.
The technician preps the client by performing a cleansing facial on the skin first, then maps the facial skin into regions and systematically treats the areas section by section. It may be necessary to go over a section several times before moving on to the next area for treatment. A good technician maintains a steady even pressure throughout the process.

In the first hour after treatment, there is mild edema (swelling) and erythema (redness), and may last for an hour or as much as two days depending on the individual.
This is an example of a basic microdermabrasion unit, the wands mentioned earlier are the tools you can see hooked on the side. Most Units come with different sized wands for treating smaller areas like the crease of the nose and under the lips.

The vacuum tubes are attached to the wand and the tube to a pump which then applies the suction pressure as the wand is passed over the skin.

The beneficial effects of this procedure can be quite dramatic or subtle depending on the client. With the stratum corneum gone, the skin’s surface is improved. The healing process brings with it newer skin cells that look and feel smoother. Some of the skin’s visible imperfections like sun damage, blemishes, discolouration and fine lines are removed.

Also, without the Stratum Corneum acting as a barrier, medicinal creams and lotions are more effective because more of their active ingredients and moisture can find their way down to the lower layers of the skin.
As Microdermabrasion temporarily removes some moisture from the skin, it is always followed by the application of rich moisturising creams.

Early studies suggest that repeated microdermabrasion treatments at regular intervals may influence the way the lower layers of skin grow, also acting to remove deeper blemishes over time. Some evidence seems to indicate that the rapid loss of skin moisture may be what triggers the lower skin layers to work overtime in speeding healthy cells up to the surface.

Regular treatments over a period of time is the best way to get the maximum benefit of the process. Your therapist will recommend some exfoliating/moisturizing creams and preparations to be used in between treatments to get the best results.

Microdermabrasion also works especially well as a way to clean out clogged pores. It is a useful alternative for patients too sensitive for preparations like Retin-A.

There are a few contra indications for the procedure and these include clients suffering from Fragile capillaries, vascular lesions, Widespread Acne, Herpetic lesions, Warts, Open sores, Skin lesions, Eczema, Dermatitis, Psoriasis, Lupus, anticoagulant therapy, Erythematosus and Diabetes Mellitus.

This procedure has gained popularity as an alternative to surgical face lifts and other more invasive procedures.
However, it must be noted that as with anything involving removal of top layers of the skin. Skin of colour is prone to post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) so it is important to go to a doctor or trained aesthetician; do not be shy to ask about their qualifications.

The cost of these treatments vary depending on who you go to but generally about $100 to $200 per session in America. I charge N15,000 in my practise and can go as low as N10,000 per session when booking for multiple sessions.

Microdermabrasion as with any other treatment to obtain flawless skin; patience and consistency is paramount. Permanent results takes time to achieve so I would not recommend just one microdermabrasion treatment, a minimum of five sessions or more depending on the severity of your blemishes.

As the skin is more vulnerable during these treatments, more meticulous use of sunscreen is required.
Till next time, keep putting your best face forward.

LOVE YOUR SKIN WITH DR EBELE UGOCHUKWU - EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT EXFOLIATION

Dr Ebele Ugochukwu obtained her medical degree from the University of Jos, Plateau State, Nigeria. She later obtained a diploma in practical dermatology from University of Cardiff Wales. She is the MD of Sleek Studio Ltd, a company that specializes in the sales and marketing of Sleek Makeup from the UK and the company owned skin care line.
She has experimented extensively with different skin care formulations and brands.
Her qualifications and years of experience has led to her interest and devotion to cosmetic dermatology.
Dissemination of Healthy skin care practises is the goal of Dr Ebele and she intends to achieve this by providing training, workshops and seminars to educate the Nigerian public.

CULLED FROM DR EBELE UGOCHUKWU'S COLUMN ON BELLA NAIJA
Exfoliation is the process of removing the top layer of your skin either mechanically or chemically.
Our cells are in a constant state of renewal; from new cells to old then they die are eventually shed. Without proper exfoliation, these dead cells can accumulate on the skin surface not only creating a dull lack lustre quality to the skin, it can also trap dirt and debris in between. It is essential to remove this dead cell layer regularly to allow new healthy cells to rise to the surface thereby giving the skin a health glow and natural radiance.

Human skin is made up of an upper layer called the Epidermis and a lower deeper layer called the Dermis.

The new younger cells are below and the older dying cells are above. So the idea is to ensure that the new cells rise to the top regularly with no impediment.
Mechanical exfoliation is achieved by applying a mildly abrasive agent to the skin in a regular, rhythmic pattern for about 90seconds or more. This type of preparation is commonly referred to as a scrub; abrasive agents used include sugar, salt, crushed almond or walnut shells, coffee grounds and jojoba beads to name just a few. Mechanical exfoliation can also be achieved to some extent with brushes, special sponges and other electronic devices.
Chemical exfoliation is using a mildly corrosive agent to melt off the top layer of the skin by breaking down the bonds between the cells. Alpha hydroxyl acids (AHA) (these include glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid) are most commonly used for exfoliating creams. Other exfoliating chemicals include Beta hydroxyl acids (BHA), enzymes and Retinol.


The life cycle of our skin cells.

So to put it simply mechanical exfoliators scrub/scrape off while mechanical exfoliators melt off.
It has always been widely advised to exfoliate 2-3times per week however, it is more than likely that the main target of that message is the Caucasians; indeed, majority of the skin care resources available are referring to Caucasian skin.
To better understand why the needs of Caucasian skin and skin of colour differ, it is important to highlight a few differences between these two skin types.


Skin

Scientists have discovered structural differences in Black, White and Asian skin in terms of thickness, water content and lipids.

In order not to get to too technical, I will mention the major differences;

• The Stratum corner of Black skin has more layers and stronger cells than in white skin.

• The epidermis of black skin contains less glutathione (a co-enzyme involved in intracellular oxidation reduction reactions). Inhibition of epidermal glutathione system leads to darker skin and the presence of glutathione leads to inhibition of melanogenesis (production of the pigment melanin which gives skin its colour.

• Black skin has larger melanosomes (melanin producing cells) than white skin.

• Black skin has a higher electrical resistance than white skin which suggest greater thickness and cohesion.

• Black skin has larger and multinucleate fibroblasts (a cell in found in connective tissue which produces collagen and other fibres) which is the reason we are more prone to scarring and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

• Black skin and Asian skin have thicker and more compact Dermis which is the reason we have fewer wrinkles as we age.

• Black skin has larger mast cell granules (cells that gather at the site of inflammation to begin the healing process) than white skin. This is also why we are more prone to keloid formation.

• Black skin sheds its outer layers more frequently than white skin.

Please note that anywhere you see the term ‘black skin’ it is not referring to dark complexioned people but instead referring to every human being of African Descent originally irrespective of whether you are fair, medium or even mulatto.

It is quite obvious that the care of black skin versus white needs to be a bit different to cater for each specific skin care requirement.

For black skin the most important routine is EXFOLIATION. From the above you can see that not only is black skin thicker, it also desquamates (cell turnover) more frequently. Black skin can be scrubbed daily without any adverse effects due to the reasons already mentioned. However, you must be careful about the scrub you use.

Second to drinking water, exfoliation is the most important thing for maintaining good skin for people of colour.
Daily Exfoliation will make your skin smoother, fairer, brighter, softer.

Imagine a carpenter with a piece of wood, the more he sand papers it, the smoother and lighter it becomes.
It is best to combine both chemical and mechanical exfoliation to get the best results. And alpha hydroxyl acids are also excellent for maintaining the youthfulness of your skin.

Please note that it is not every scrub that can be used daily. For example, the crushed almond or walnut shells used in Apricot facial scrub is not for daily use. The shells can cause micro cuts on the skin surface, Note also that it is inadvisable to use body scrubs on your face. Facial scrubs are specially formulated because the face has special needs when compared to the rest of your body.

Good examples of daily facial scrub in no particular order include;
• Dermalogica daily exfoliant
• Aveeno Radiant skin brightening daily scrub
• Olay skin smoothing cream scrub
• S.Studio ‘Scrub Away My Troubles’ daily scrub (the range also includes excellent chemical exfoliating lotion)
• Murad AHA/BHA Exfoliating cleanser
• Neutrogena Pore Refining exfoliating cleanser
• The Body Shop Aloe Gentle Exfoliator
• Biore free your pores pore unclogging scrub.

You can augment the effect by using any exfoliating cream of your choice; just look out in the ingredients for Alpha hydroxyl acid AHA or beta hydroxyl acid BHA or retinol.

Please note the following when using any kind of chemical exfoliating lotion/cream;
• Product is best applied only at night.
• you have to avoid the sun as much as possible
• be disciplined with your use of sun screen daily
• Always let your facial therapist know especially with the use of retinol; she has to be extra cautious during treatments.

If you’re not a skinaholic, the least you can do is exfoliate daily, drink a lot of water and use your sunscreen.
For my fellow skinaholics, I know I don’t need to tell you twice, adjust your game if you need to.

Till next time, keep putting your best face forward!

LOVE YOUR SKIN WITH DR EBELE UGOCHUKWU - THIS IS WHY WATER IS IMPORTANT FOR YOUR SKIN

Excerpt from Dr Ebele Ugochukwu's Column on www.bellanaija.com If you haven't been following the "Love your skin with Dr Ebele Ugochukwu on Bella naija, here is an opportunity to.

Your skin is the largest organ in your body. It performs many functions the most obvious being Aesthetics.
Can you imagine if we were all walking around with our muscles, tendons, veins, arteries and nerves in plain view? Aaargh…….My sentiments exactly!!
God in his infinite wisdom gave us our skin to beautifully enclose His wondrous creation. The skin like all our other organs needs water to perform all its functions optimally.
In the course of my business, I have had many clients who admit they do not drink water. I even had a fellow doctor saying to me that all the fluids we drink vis a vis; juice, soft drinks etc. contain the water we need. I was astonished this was coming from a medical person. Nothing can replace drinking plain water (preferably at room temperature) for the optimal functioning of the body at the cellular level.

Is it possible to have good skin in the presence of dehydrated cells? Absolutely not!

Dehydrated cells are fragile, disfigured and will obviously not function optimally.

YOU CANNOT HAVE GREAT SKIN IF YOU DON’T DRINK ENOUGH WATER!! I put this in capital letters because I cannot overemphasize this enough. A minimum of 8 glasses a day or two large swan water bottles (1.5L each). I know two bottles may be difficult for those who are just starting to drink water daily but the key is to start small and slowly build up to two or more bottles daily.

Water is essential for toxin removal in the body.
Lack of water Intake is akin to a house with backed up plumping. We all know what happens when you cannot flush away waste in your toilet…just imagine the same in your body, the more you water the better the body flushes out toxins and waste thus allowing your true radiant skin to shine forth.
As you become effective in hydrating yourself internally, it is also great to hydrate your face externally in the form of steam.
Steaming is very good for your face, you can achieve this by getting regular facials or buying a personal face steamer. You could even just boil hot water but in a bowl and bend over with a towel covering your head and upper back.

The water in the steam hydrates your face while the hotness of the steam will cause your pores to open and release trapped dirt and detritus.

There is a network of small blood vessels under the skin called capillaries, the flow in these capillaries is not always optimal due to many physiological reasons so activities (exercise, steaming/sauna, massage) that cause them to flow better is advantageous to the end organ supplied by the capillary network.

When the steam hits your face, the body tries to regulate the increased temperature by opening up the blood vessels and increasing flow to the capillaries so the body is kept cool by the process of evaporation. As this increased blood flow under skin occurs, it brings more oxygen and nutrients to the skin surface while removing toxins and waste chemicals as it flows back to the heart through the venous system.

All the above causes your face to become smoother, clearer and more radiant. If you steam at least twice a week you will also notice a lightening of your complexion.

The value of water in a proper skin regimen is impossible to quantify. If it is not already a habit with you please get drinking and get steaming!

Till next month, continue to put your best face forward.

About Ebele Ugochukwu

Dr Ebele Ugochukwu obtained her medical degree from the University of Jos, Plateau State, Nigeria. She later obtained a diploma in practical dermatology from University of Cardiff Wales. She is the MD of Sleek Studio Ltd, a company that specializes in the sales and marketing of Sleek Makeup from the UK and the company owned skin care line.
She has experimented extensively with different skin care formulations and brands.
Her qualifications and years of experience has led to her interest and devotion to cosmetic dermatology.
Dissemination of Healthy skin care practises is the goal of Dr Ebele and she intends to achieve this by providing training, workshops and seminars to educate the Nigerian public.

PRIME360TV: BEAUTY TIPS AT SLEEK STUDIO (EXFOLIATION

Dr Ebele Ugochukwu's Interview on Prime Tv. Here are Healthy Skincare Practices and Tips for Flawless and Healthier Skin.
Watch and be informed.

LOVE YOUR SLEEK SKIN CONTEST

Hi people, It is yet another Sleek Contest, you know how we do it, Sleek Studio Nigeria presents to you our #LoveYourSleekSkin  contest, you Stand a chance to win A Hamper filled with our S.studio skincare products, A mini facial session for you and a friend and A super surprise package.

RULES OF THE GAME:

• Post a makeup free and Filter free selfie of yourself on Instagram telling us why you love your skin.
• Follow @sleekstudiong , use the hashtag #LoveYourSleekSkin 
• Get your friends to like your re-posted picture and follow our our page.
• Picture with the highest genuine likes and no filter wins.

Hurry people what are you waiting for? Enter for the Sleek contest and win!

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TIPS - 3 COMMON MAKEUP MISTAKES AND HOW TO FIX THEM

Happy New Month peeps! The year is moving so fast and we are still trying to keep up with the resolutions.As we take our beauty and skincare game to a great level, here are tips we want to share for you to up your makeup game. As we know, no one is perfect, even professionals make mistakes, have you noticed a situation where both your eyebrows ain't the same? Here is how to fix the makeup mess

HOW TO FIX EYELINER SMUDGES :  Depending on the kind of eyeliner - Liquid eyeliner, Or pencil eyeliner, the thick pencil eyeliner and liquid eyeliner tend to smudge more. Depending on which, when you notice a smudge, put a small amount of moisturizer on a COTTON BUD, then dab the affected area, wait for it to dry and apply your powder on that area for an even look.

FIXING MASCARA MISHAPS : If your eyelashes appear clumpy after applying your mascara, all you need do is, put a small amount of moisturizer on your finger tip, then gently pinch the clumps, this will help reduce the buildup of excess mascara.

TAKEOUT EXCESS LIPSTICK : You know that moment after applying your favourite lipstick and you just realize that it doesn't suit your look or it looks too glossy, Just place a thin layer of blotting paper on the lips and apply loose powder or pressed powder, this will help reduce the glossy lips, set the lipstick in place, don't worry, the blotting paper doesn't remove the lipstick, it just matt it down.

 

Do you have any beauty hacks or tricks? please share with us. You can also buy all your favorite Sleek makeup from our flagship store located on 141 Ahmadu Bello Way VI Lagos Nigeria. or visit www.konga.com/sleek-nigeria to place your order online.